I'm making S4084, which I believe is discontinued.
The fabric is aqua denim. Lining is a lighter aqua. There will be lots of white top-stitching, and white buttons. Silver D-rings hanging from the yokes, silver buckle.
I made two muslins to get the fit correct. There was some folds at the back armsythe, which I determined to be a result of sloping shoulders. Now, I know I have sloped shoulders. I've known it for quite some time. I don't know why it's so hard to admit it to myself. I can say my behind is as big as Wal-Mart, but I always have trouble believing the shoulder problem!
To solve the shoulder delima, I lowered the shoulder seam at the armsythe 1/2", tapering to the original line at the neck. Then, I lowered the armsythe at the side seam 1/2". Add a shoulder pad, and that area fits like a glove.
I wanted some fullness from the waistline down, so I slashed/spread the pattern in a couple of places, front and back, from the hemline to the waist, adding 8" to the front and back at the hem. Now it has an A-line silhouette instead of being straight.
I've done some other fiddling in preparation of sewing. Practiced bound buttonholes, and the jury is still out about those. I made some samples of top-stitching, which is turning out to be troublesome on that bull denim. In one direction, the stitches are beautiful. But, when stitching across the grain, the stitches look funky because of the way the needle hits the twill weave. I get the best result in both directions by using a stretch straight stitch (two stitches forward, one backward). That will be time-consuming, but it's the best method I've achieved so far.
I'll be interfacing the entire coat front with knit interfacing. It's lightweight, so hopefully the coat won't be able to stand on it's own!
And, that's where I am to date. More to come, as I progress.
Make it a good week!
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